© by William Richard Green
»For Spring/Summer 2012, William Richard Green puts a spotlight on negativity. A fascination with the paradox of suicide – caused by a post-recession Weltschmerz on the designer’s part – sets the tragicomic mood for the label’s darkest collection to date. Amused by the irony of what the Church believes to be the punishment of a person who commits suicide, namely to spend the residue of their mortal life in purgatory, Green presents an unapologetic, tongue-in-cheek representation of pop culture’s perhaps most glamorised way to go.
A print of sketches portraying post-suicide characters in their eternal ›waiting room‹ surroundings, illustrated by Martin Wollerstam, appears on a silk shirt and vest, establishing the gallows humour of the collection and the designer’s ironic distance to the topic in question. Likewise, a cliché suicide situation of a despairing girl crying, photographed by Ellis Scott, is featured in print on a white t-shirt, hinting at modern society’s bubblegum depiction of suicide. Green’s trademark bone pendants on necklaces further prove the point.
Acting as inspirational filmic backup, Pier Paolo Pasolini’s gory masterpiece from 1975, Salò, enters into the all black-and-white collection in the shape of fetish-like pieces ticking off Green’s signature boxes, such as a cotton satin blazer with harness, or a zip up black rubber coat with a contrasting trans rubber sleeve. An un-dyed rubber t-shirt with contrasting black rubber stripes allude to classic convict suits, and the idea of limbo as God’s prison. This is also seen in a sweatshirt-jersey trouser covered in individual panels resembling stripes.
A Green trademark, polka dot lining appears throughout the collection, which is made predominantly of British fabrics and produced exclusively in Great Britain. Polka dots likewise appear on a brogue produced by Underground for William Richard Green – the second collaboration between the designer and the legendary English footwear label. Just because the boy looks poor and suicidal doesn’t mean he can’t buy into the morals of a good British heritage brand.«
WILLIAM RICHARD GREEN Website