© by Samuel Mercure
Using straight cuts and different shades of black, Samuel Mercure’s work alternates between smooth and structured materials through austere yet protective silhouettes. Coming from the world of fine arts, he looks to create in each of his collections an aesthetic that is raw, refined and enigmatic.
For Spring/Summer 2012, he managed to distance himself from the usual runway show, presenting his new collection with both a video and technical installation. In the first room, filled with darkness, a video lookbook was projected on a human scale monolithe, wich has been and still is a big influence in Mercure’s work. Another video, projected on the wall across the room, presented the mood of the collection. In the adjacent room, the collection’s fabrics were showcased, allowing visitors to touch and get a feel of what the pieces are seing as except for a showpiece vest, made mixing cloth and actual branches, and a backpack supsended from the ceilling no actual garment was presented. These were shown alongside product shots of every piece of the collection indexed to their technical sheet where it was possible to read technical specification such as codes, sizes, colors, technical description and so forth.
For the designer S/S12 was the logical evolution following A/W11. Some pieces acting as declinaisons of previous styles and others being new concepts created in the same spirit. Seen as Mercure’s signature, straight and symetrical cuts, protective shapes, different shades of black and layering are features of this collection. The motivation behind this presentation came from Mercure’s desire to be recognize both as a designer and an artist.
SAMUEL MERCURE Website