Nicomede Talavera’s 10-look-collection was inspired by the book ›Least Wanted; A Century of American Mugshots‹ and George Lucas’ cult 1971 film ›THX 1138‹. The collection of mug shots from 1870-1960 offered a fascinating insight into the appearance and demeanor of these dishevelled and wayward characters. Their hand-me-down clothes fitting too tightly, oversized and hanging languidly off their shoulders, or disproportionate and skew-whiff – all part of their mischevious guises and attitude.

The candid and detached qualities of the mug shots are encapsulating and stare back as rare artifacts. A mug shot captures people at their lowest or most vulnerable; we look hard at their faces, calculating guilt or innocence and have to supply their back-story from the fragment of information on show.

The rawness of these images was then interjected with the stark futuristic worker wear and uniform elements worn by the characters in THX 1138. Who rebel against their dystopiancontrolled environment in which the populace is controlled through android police officers and mandatory use of drugs that suppress emotions in order for them to perform tasks for long stretches of time.

All of the fabrics are also representative of the conflict between these two characters; washed denim, silk, linen, wool and cotton sit alongside latex nylon, coated jersey, leather, high-sheen nylons, iridescent coated cotton and fabric made from recycled cassette tapes.

This fusion of the traditional yet disheveled menswear garments such as trench coats, tailored jackets and overcoats are worn nonchalantly with an ‘I don’t care’ rough and ready attitude. The combination with the strong linear shapes, harsh lines and fabrics from futuristic worker wear set the tone for the whole collection. Culminating in oversized outerwear with odd proportions, high necklines draped fronts, dropped shoulders, unusual pocket sizes and positioning, purposely creased and worn fabrics, cropped layers, stylised rips at the knees and chest, and multiple layers of fabric.

A main feature of the collection is the appearance of hand-embroidered floral bouquets on black binca fabric that appear on a whole jacket, a shirt collar and as the sleeves of a sheer latex nylon shirt. The floral adds a romanticism and beauty to the collection that comes from the naivety and youthful energy of the small-timer criminals alongside the triumph of love and sexual desire as seen in THX 1138.

London-based menswear designer Nicomede Talavera has just graduated from the Menswear Design BA at Central Saint Martins. In the Fall of 2011 he will begin his time on the MA Fashion Design course at CSM under the teaching of professor Louise Wilson.

Exploring and mixing different fabrics is a reoccurring theme in Nicomede’s work and many of his designs really begin with the fabric as the starting point. He is really inspired by different textures, mixing fabrics and how the right choice of fabric can enhance a design and offer new opportunities and shapes. He also likes taking unusual and unexpected fabrics and putting them in a fashion context.

Over the past four years Nicomede has taught on several summer schools and weekend courses run by the University of the Arts. During the third year of his degree Nicomede worked for 3.1 Philip Lim in New York and Lanvin Homme in Paris. His graduate collection consists of 10 full looks and a 10-piece bag collection in collaboration with EASTPAK.



Richard Kilroy said...

Wow. Beautiful. I'm a fan!


Me too! Really, really, really big fan!

Josh said...

Ohh I really like this!

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