© by Maria Francesca Pepe
Leather, Fur, Hard Metal, Blood, Crosses, Skin, Teeth, Scars, Belts and Eroticism are all components of Maria Francesca Pepe’s new season dark aesthetic enhanced by corset-shaped dresses, the focus on the décolleté and the transparencies of a tough femininity.
The strong accent on textures and luxury materials are a distinctive signature of MFP’s Ready-to-Wear: Wolf-fur textured velvet, stretchy wrinkled leather, grey long haired hide, chunky jacquard, ›scars‹ printed skin-tight silk georgette, angora wool and bondage jersey. The colours fade from deep blacks to dark burgundy and skin tones. The jewellery is an inner component of the clothing, as with Maria Francesca Pepe’s continuing jewellery-wear concept. Chains for trousers, necklaces define the edges of tailored jackets and plated brass crosses stud the georgette as embroidery. A multitude of belts buckled with metal vampire’s teeth, fall from the back of corsets as tails.
The silhouette remains MFP signature minimal, with a strong accent on the shoulders balanced by forties knee length of hems. Biker and punk references, MJ’s eighties Bad album mixed with the refined Italian tailoring tradition results in easy to wear volumes with a strong edge. The leather jacket becomes a body suit and the blazer a dress. The addition of a second draped panel on top of a jacket or a dress redesigns the silhouette creating a lighting contrast between the shiny and matt materials.
Statement jewellery pieces in the shape of 3D crosses and teeth complete the collection next to MFP’s infamous Tubulars reinvented this season in a sprayed pop-trash effect as if stained by a spill of blood. Maria Francesca Pepe’s Autumn Winter 2010/11 collection explores the state of transition from human to animal, from life to death and vice versa as a condition of beauty. The gothic references are mixed with a conceptual approach to fashion, where the thrill of a sudden metamorphosis fades the definition of the silhouettes and the ornaments.
MARIA FRANCESCA PEPE Website